Some tips on maintaining a good lawn:
Myth: Crabgrass preventer should be applied as soon as the
grass turns green.
Fact: Early application of preemergent herbicides for crabgrass
is a waste of money. Crabgrass doesn't sprout until the ground
warms, and the chemical that prevents crabgrass is most effective
for only six to eight weeks. In the Twin Cities area, the best
time to apply preemergent crabgrass killer usually is the first
or second week of May.
Myth: Grass
clippings should always be removed from the lawn.
Fact: Clippings contribute nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium
to the lawn. Distributed evenly, they make up the equivalent
of about one fertilizer application a year. Cut the grass often.
Short clippings decay quickly, and cutting no more than one-third
of the grass blade at a time will lead to a healthier lawn.
Excessively long grass should be collected and added to the
compost pile.
Myth: Grass clippings create thatch.
Fact: Grass clippings decay too fast to create significant
thatch. Thatch, the chocolate brown layer of dead and living
tissue just above soil level and below green grass, is more
readily created by overuse of chemicals. Ideally, thatch is
about a half-inch thick. Very thick thatch can contribute to
insect and disease problems.
Myth: Laying black
dirt on top of clay will yield a quality
lawn.
Fact: Because so-called "black dirt" ranges
from near-sand to clay, depending on where it's purchased,
other
materials such as peat moss, compost or other organic matter
are better mixed with clay to improve soil before sod is laid.
The material should be tilled in to a depth of six inches.
Even so, lawns growing on clay often require lots of maintenance.
Regular aeration will help maintain a lawn growing on clay
by reducing compaction.
Myth: Lawns should be watered
often and at night.
Fact: Watering at night and frequent, shallow watering invites
disease or stress problems. Water early in the morning or during
the day. But don't overdo it - waterlogged lawns can be prone
to disease or other problems. Shut off that automatic watering
system if it's raining all the time.
Myth: When a lawn begins to turn
brown at the height of summer,
it's time to fertilize.
Fact: Extreme summer heat will make many Minnesota lawns go
brown and dormant. Water if you want, but don't fertilize,
which stresses the lawn by telling it to grow when nature is
telling it to rest. If you want to fertilize in the spring,
do so from mid-May to mid-June, then hold off until after mid-August.
Myth: Grass growing under
trees should look just as thick
and healthy as grass growing in the sun.
Fact: Grass will not grow in dense shade. To get a decent
lawn, grass needs to receive sunlight for about half the day.
Sod, which usually contains bluegrass varieties that need lots
of sun to do well, is less reliable in shade than a shade-tolerant
seed mix containing bluegrass and fescues. Let the grass grow
a bit longer than the rest of the lawn - between three and
four inches - and fertilize only half as much.
Myth: If the chemical
label says one teaspoon per gallon will
get rid of weeds, doubling the dose will do an even better
job.
Fact: Never, ever apply more than the specified amount of
chemical or fertilizer to your weeds or lawn. If one application
doesn't eliminate the problem, reapply later according to the
directions. Clover, creeping Charlie and other tough weeds
often take two or three applications to be eliminated. A single,
excessive application can damage grass, trees, shrubs and garden
plants and poses risks to people and animals. Follow label
directions.
Myth: Gypsum will get rid of dog spots.
Fact: Gypsum changes soil structure, but the surest way to
patch up dog spots is to flush the area with water, remove
the dead grass, scratch up the dirt and plant grass seed. Spraying
a spot with water immediately after Spot urinates can prevent
spotting by washing urinary salts down into the soil.
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SolveYourProblem.com : 2007
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