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SolveYourProblem Landscaping Article Series
Lawn Care Myths You Should Know
  

Some tips on maintaining a good lawn:

Myth: Crabgrass preventer should be applied as soon as the grass turns green.

Fact: Early application of preemergent herbicides for crabgrass is a waste of money. Crabgrass doesn't sprout until the ground warms, and the chemical that prevents crabgrass is most effective for only six to eight weeks. In the Twin Cities area, the best time to apply preemergent crabgrass killer usually is the first or second week of May.

Myth: Grass clippings should always be removed from the lawn.

Fact: Clippings contribute nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to the lawn. Distributed evenly, they make up the equivalent of about one fertilizer application a year. Cut the grass often. Short clippings decay quickly, and cutting no more than one-third of the grass blade at a time will lead to a healthier lawn. Excessively long grass should be collected and added to the compost pile.

Myth: Grass clippings create thatch.

Fact: Grass clippings decay too fast to create significant thatch. Thatch, the chocolate brown layer of dead and living tissue just above soil level and below green grass, is more readily created by overuse of chemicals. Ideally, thatch is about a half-inch thick. Very thick thatch can contribute to insect and disease problems.

Myth: Laying black dirt on top of clay will yield a quality lawn.

Fact: Because so-called "black dirt" ranges from near-sand to clay, depending on where it's purchased, other materials such as peat moss, compost or other organic matter are better mixed with clay to improve soil before sod is laid. The material should be tilled in to a depth of six inches. Even so, lawns growing on clay often require lots of maintenance. Regular aeration will help maintain a lawn growing on clay by reducing compaction.

Myth: Lawns should be watered often and at night.

Fact: Watering at night and frequent, shallow watering invites disease or stress problems. Water early in the morning or during the day. But don't overdo it - waterlogged lawns can be prone to disease or other problems. Shut off that automatic watering system if it's raining all the time.

Myth: When a lawn begins to turn brown at the height of summer, it's time to fertilize.

Fact: Extreme summer heat will make many Minnesota lawns go brown and dormant. Water if you want, but don't fertilize, which stresses the lawn by telling it to grow when nature is telling it to rest. If you want to fertilize in the spring, do so from mid-May to mid-June, then hold off until after mid-August.

Myth: Grass growing under trees should look just as thick and healthy as grass growing in the sun.

Fact: Grass will not grow in dense shade. To get a decent lawn, grass needs to receive sunlight for about half the day. Sod, which usually contains bluegrass varieties that need lots of sun to do well, is less reliable in shade than a shade-tolerant seed mix containing bluegrass and fescues. Let the grass grow a bit longer than the rest of the lawn - between three and four inches - and fertilize only half as much.

Myth: If the chemical label says one teaspoon per gallon will get rid of weeds, doubling the dose will do an even better job.

Fact: Never, ever apply more than the specified amount of chemical or fertilizer to your weeds or lawn. If one application doesn't eliminate the problem, reapply later according to the directions. Clover, creeping Charlie and other tough weeds often take two or three applications to be eliminated. A single, excessive application can damage grass, trees, shrubs and garden plants and poses risks to people and animals. Follow label directions.

Myth: Gypsum will get rid of dog spots.

Fact: Gypsum changes soil structure, but the surest way to patch up dog spots is to flush the area with water, remove the dead grass, scratch up the dirt and plant grass seed. Spraying a spot with water immediately after Spot urinates can prevent spotting by washing urinary salts down into the soil.

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SolveYourProblem.com : 2007

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